Day 1 – Arrive from UK via Dubai
Unfortunately due to flight rescheduling we needed a stop over in an airport hotel in Dubai but I guess that meant we arrived refreshed in Oman raring to go.
Based in the heart of Muscat, the Radisson Blu is contemporary and colourful, with modern facilities and good levels of comfort. There is a lovely pool for cooling down after a day looking round the city, while the restaurants serve good food and the bar is perfect for a relaxing nightcap.
The rest of the day was free so we decided to explore the local are via Google maps and after a quick visit to an ATM it was off to a mall to cool off, browse the shops and grab a bite to eat
Day 4 – FREE DAY
Today is a free day.
There are loads of activities that can be arranged, options include nature walks, hiking trails, yoga classes, archery, painting lessons, stargazing opportunities, cooking classes, and movies under the stars
The hotel’s swimming pool overlooks a valley and the Jebel Akhdar villages, making it a superb place to unwind and simply enjoy the view. Furthermore, the hotel’s wonderful spa offers a range of soothing treatments which can be enjoyed alone or as a couple.
Lynn opted for the pool and sps for a spot of pampering.
Paul decided upon the via ferrata. Perhaps a slightly lighter breakfast and some more appropriate foot wear could have been a good idea but he thoroughly enjoyed it anyway
Day 2 – PANORAMIC CITY TOUR OF MUSCAT
We started at the Sultan Qaboos Mosque. Completed in 2001, it is an enormous place of worship. With a large men’s prayer hall, an adjacent women’s prayer hall and further space in the courtyards and passageways, a total of 20,000 worshippers can gather at one time, making this one of the largest mosques in the world. The architectural influences are drawn from all over the world, with the main domed prayer hall based on Ottoman designs, strong Persian aspects to the interior design, and beautiful Central Asian ceramic niches found in the outer passageways. Two particularly interesting aspects of the mosque are the carpet and chandelier in the main prayer hall. The carpet is a 263 square metre affair that took four years to complete and was woven by experts from across the Islamic world. The central chandelier, the biggest of 35 in the prayer hall all made using Swarovski crystal and gilded metals, is 14 metres tall and eight metres across, has 1122 lights and weighs eight tonnes.
After the visit to the mosque yet was on to Muscat’s new Royal Opera House. The newly completed building is the premier venue for musical arts and culture in Oman. Built on the royal orders of Sultan Qaboos of Oman, the Royal Opera House reflects contemporary Omani architecture, and has a capacity to accommodate a maximum of 1,100 people. The opera house complex consists of a concert theatre, auditorium, formal landscaped gardens, cultural market with retail, luxury restaurants and an art centre for musical, theatrical and operatic productions.
Now to Muscat and Muttrah, the older parts of town. In Muttrah the fish souq is where the day’s catch is offered for sale. Grouper, tuna, sardines and octopus are all regular catches, and the souq is a great place to see Omanis going about their everyday business. Further along Muttrah corniche, are the faded facades of merchant’s houses dating to the time of Portuguese influence and control of the region. Delicate balconies and decorations are testament to this influence. Behind these buildings lies Muttrah souq. This is a traditional souq selling handicrafts, fabric, Omani clothes, spices, jewellery and all sorts of hardware, and is far more aimed at locals than tourists.
Just beyond Muttrah we pass through the fortified walls and into Muscat. Until the middle of the 20th century, Muscat still operated a curfew where the gates of the city were swung closed at sunset and anyone caught out after this was in serious trouble. Muscat lies on a natural cove, guarded by the forts of Jalali and Mirani as well as the enclosing mountains. Many of its buildings are amongst the oldest in the Capital Area, while there are also modern buildings in traditional style to house the various government departments. In Muscat we saw the Sultan’s Al Alam Palace – although not normally occupied, it is still closed to visitors. However nearby Bait Zubair is definitely open to visitors and has a superb collection of traditional Omani clothes, jewellery and firearms housed in one of the oldest residences in the city. Bait Zubair is a great little museum and a wonderful way of being introduced to Omani culture.
Day 3 – MUSCAT TO NIZWA VIA WADI BANI AWF
Leaving Muscat, we travel north along the Batinah Coast until we reach Seeb, where we turn inland towards Nakhl. At Nakhl, the tar road soon comes to an end and head along the wadi floor towards Snake Gorge. This is Wadi Bani Auf; for a long time only traversable by foot. The steep cleft in the mountains is one of the most scenic drives in Oman and brings us out near the capital of the interior; Nizwa.
ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT
Nestled in the heart of the beautiful ‘Green Mountain’, less than an hour from Nizwa town, the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort is a truly luxurious retreat for privacy, a peaceful environment and fabulous views over the Saiq Plateau and its famous terraced fields. The lodge sets out to be a modernist version of a classical Omani Fort and has wonderful views over the canyon, including from the infinity pool that offers commanding views over the surrounding area.
One of the best parts of staying here is looking at the stars from the star gazing platform on a clear night – completely unimpeded by any light pollution as the property is so secluded. Despite its isolated location, there are plenty of dining options to choose from. From pan-Arabian fine dining at the Al Qalaa Tower restaurant, to high-end Southeast Asian cuisine at Al Maisan and Italian home cooking at Bella Vista.
Day 5 – WALK FROM AL AQUR TO SAIQ
Today we did the three village walk from the village of Al Aqur through Al Ayn to Ash Shirayjah.
From Al Aqur we follow the trail (known as W18b), which is marked with red, white and yellow paint at regular intervals, enroute we could see traditional farming practises, including the terraced farms and the falaj irrigation system, as well as local village life.
There are outstanding views and the valley has lots of fossilised coral being visible at 2200m, whilst the whole area is well known for the production of rosewater.
Day 6 – JEBEL AKHDAR TO JEBEL SHAMS FOR THE BALCONY WALK
Winding down from the Saiq Plateau, we join the main road and head deeper into the interior. We bypass both Birkat al Mauz and the town of Nizwa, heading higher into the mountains again as we travel towards the town of Al Hamra and beyond.
In Al Hamra we picked up our walking guide. From here we drove up to Al Khatim and began the Balcony Walk overlooking the Oman Grand Canyon with the guide along the ‘abandoned village walk’ and back to Al Khatim to take in the magnificent views over a picnic lunch in the mountain rest hut. Following lunch we walked into Wadi Ghul.
AL HAMRA, WADI GHUL AND ONTO NIZWA
Al Hamra nestles against the base of Jebel Shams and is one of the few old towns in Oman not to boast a fort or defensive wall. The town today is a mixture of old and new, with the old section being the real attraction with the historic quarter still very much inhabited. One old house, dating back three hundred years, Bait Al Safa is open to visitors, and is where Sufi women used to live together like nuns.
GOLDEN TULIP
In a quiet location about a 20 minute drive outside of Nizwa, the Golden Tulip Nizwa Hotel is set amidst the rugged Hajar Mountains and is a good base for exploring Oman’s interiors. The hotel has one restaurant and three bars, including a poolside bar where we had a barbecue buffet both nights.
Day 7 – NIZWA, CAMEL MARKET, SOUK AND FORT.
Today is a busy day so it’s an early morning start to see the trading at the camel and goat market.
NIZWA SOUK
Less than 20 years ago Nizwa had one of Arabia’s largest souqs; a warren of interconnecting lanes lined with hundreds of tiny shops. Although now in a new, purpose-built complex, this is undoubtedly a traditional souq. The style of the buildings is entirely in keeping with the historic architecture, and the items on sale – dates, pots, jewellery, guns and local produce haven’t changed much in the last 150 years. Nizwa’s is famous for silver jewellery and expert craftsmen who fashion exquisite silverware .
NIZWA SOUK GUN TRADING
No licences, no laws, no problem. Guns were openly on sale and there was even an auction for an old English rifle that reached £1500
NIZWA FORT.
Reflecting Nizwa’s former strategic importance, the fort is a vast circular tower that completely dominates the town. Standing 30 m high and with a diameter of 36 m , it exudes an air of impregnability. A stairwell is cut through the stone filling of the tower, complete with slits through which the defenders could pour boiling date oil on any attackers. Standing on the ramparts you have a fantastic view over the town and surrounding date plantations, a view that equates nicely with the field of fire of the cannons still found bristling through gun ports.
JABRIN and BAHLA
To call Jabrin a fort is a bit of a misnomer, as it was originally built by a peaceful Imam of the Ya’aruba Dynasty in 1670 as a home, and subsequently functioned as a retreat for similarly scholastic imams. However, a defensive wall and gun towers were added to the original construction, and military action very occasionally happened here. As a primarily domestic residence and contemplative retreat, the standard of decoration, in particular the painted ceilings and carved doors, at Jabrin are considerably higher than at many of the other, more militaristic, forts and castles.
Bahla Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, mainly due to the venerability and extent of the fortifications. There has been a fort on this site as far back as 1000 BC, and the walls that encircled the settlement and its palm plantations stretch for 12 kilometres around the fort. However, Bahla is also renowned for pottery, and obviously there is a visit a traditional pottery to watch pots and bowls being made.
Bahla was for many years a centre of Sufi mysticism, a heterodox form of Islam very much running counter to the prevailing austerity of Ibadhi Islam, so local legends abound with tales of jinn (devils), flying mosques, magic and sorcery, making this one of the more otherworldly places in Oman.
Day 8 – NIZWA TO THE WAHIBA SANDS
Leaving Nizwa and heading east, the Hajar Mountains are on our left and on the right, a flat gravel plain that slowly gives way to a sliver of orange sand, the first dunes of the Wahiba Sands as we pass through a series of one-horse towns.
Enroute to the desert we drive to Wadi Bani Khalid. Steep but fairly low wadi walls enclose the stunning deep green and blue pools, although the stream in the wadi does disappear into a satisfyingly narrow and rushing canyon. It is certainly one of the prettier parts of Oman that we visited and the exposed geology is dramatic and interesting.
Lunch today was interesting.
Lynn opted for the “arsy rice” whilst Paul went for “fresh local sacrifice” that turned out to be camel and was delicious and reasonably priced. The lemon mint juice was the best that we’d had.
1000 NIGHTS DESERT CAMP
After Wadi it was on to our camp for the night. Desert driving involves going quite quickly to ensure the vehicle does not become bogged down. This is especially true when trying to get up and over a dune, so it was an exhilarating drive!
The 1000 Nights camp is located in an impressive desert basin with dunes rising to either side. The camp consists of individual traditional black wool Bedouin tents, each furnished with a bed with sheets and blankets, rug flooring, a small table and chairs, towels, and bottled water. The camp offers a swimming pool and attached cafe.
As the sun sets, lamps light the pathway to the open-air dining area, which is traditionally decorated with large, comfortable cushions. Cool drinks and refreshing mint tea are served followed by a buffet consisting of traditional Middle Eastern salads and grilled meat. Breakfast is also a traditional affair and will most certainly keep the hunger pangs at bay until lunchtime.
The main highlight of any stay here is a trip to the top of the dunes just before sunset – the views and sunset hues can be stunning.
Day 9 – THE WAHIBA SANDS TO MUSCAT VIA SUR AND THE COASTAL ROAD
Leaving the desert, we called in to a Bedouin home for coffee and dates. The young girl was very eager to help but had a tantrum when her mother wouldn’t let her pour the hot coffee.
After leaving the desert and reinflating the tyres we headed to Sur. Renowned for its boat building industry, Sur is located on an attractive corniche looking out over the turquoise waters to the village of Ayajh; with its three watch towers, distinctive light house and attractive white washed architecture. Here are the renowned boatyards, where dhows are still made to this day. Up to 100 dhow boats are anchored in the port; some still in use, others derelict.
We continue in a northerly direction along the coastal road which is sandwiched between high mountains and white sand beaches, after this scenic drive, the final part of the journey takes us back through the rugged interior until we reach Muscat.
Day 10 – AL BUSTAN PALACE
Set not far from old Muscat, it has the advantage of extensive landscaped gardens, and a one kilometre private beach in Muscat, and backed by the Hajar Mountains, Al Bustan Palace has a striking location.
The capital city of Muscat is only a short drive away and the hotel runs a complimentary shuttle service once a day at peak times of year, so we can explore the many shops, souqs and restaurants on offer.
The hotel has a buzz about it, due to its size and proximity to Muscat and guests are welcomed by a soaring atrium, richly decorated in a traditional style, with a crystal chandelier and fountain, and the rooms are designed to reflect local traditions while providing state-of-the-art facilities.
The Al Bustan Palace has a wide variety of restaurants and bars, offering a wide range of cuisine, and the opportunity to dine al fresco. For an all-day dining restaurant, Al Khiran Terrace serves buffet breakfast, lunch, and dinner. With the kitchen team specially recruited from China, the China Mood restaurant serves authentic cuisine, and is open for lunch and dinner. Set by the sea, the Beach Pavilion serves fresh fish and seafood, and is also open for lunch and dinner. The final dining option is the Seblat Al Bustan. Every Wednesday night, there is an Omani night, with traditional cuisine, music, dance, and arts and crafts.
The extensive Six Senses spa, reflecting traditional Omani design, offers 17 treatment rooms as well as sauna, steam rooms and hammams.
In addition to the large infinity pool, there are four lagoon pools, a separate children’s pool and over one kilometre of private beach. Sun loungers are available by the pools and beach.
Scuba diving can be arranged at the Oman Dive Centre, and there are 20 fantastic dive spots, from within just a few minutes to 1.5 hours’ travel from the hotel. One of the main attractions is the wreck ‘Al Munasir’, with a length of 85 metres, but there are various groups of reefs with depths of 9 – 15 metres. The variety of fish in the seas around the Sultanate is well-known as one of the biggest around the world.
The 15th was Lynn’s 70th birthday and it was a lovely place to celebrate it